Buying a vintage watch from Japan

The case for buying from Japan

Japanese dealers tend to describe watches conservatively and to keep service records. Cases are also less likely to have been aggressively polished, which matters enormously on vintage references where sharp lugs separate an average example from a good one.

Questions worth asking

Has the case ever been polished, and if so when? Ask for a straight-on shot of the lugs.

When was the movement last serviced, by whom, and is there paperwork? A recent service by a known watchmaker is worth paying for.

Are the dial and hands original to the reference, or was either replaced during a past service? Replacement is common and not disqualifying, but it should be disclosed.

On papers and boxes

Full sets carry a premium, and that premium is larger on some references than others. If a watch is offered as a full set, confirm the serial on the papers matches the case.

For a watch you intend to wear rather than trade, condition and service history usually matter more than the box.

Import considerations

Watches are among the categories most likely to attract customs attention. Expect the declared value to be examined, and budget for duty in your own country on top of the purchase price.